A misty grey day today - but no rain. We set off before 8 after a restful night in the home of Marco and Christine - shared with three dogs, two cats, some geese - and two pilgrims, a French girl Sondra and Frenchman Patrice. Dinner was delicious - lovely salade compose, aiguillettes de poulet with pomme de terre roti, with creme au chocolat with crumble. Yum. Conversation was lively - the French love a good discussion and everyone contributes. I am always happy to listen, pick up what I can, and ask Domi to translate from time to time.
After PDJ and farewells this morning, we walked for just an hour to arrive in Auch (home of the musketeer d'Artagnan), its famous cathedral in sight for the last kilometre, spectacular even on such a grey morning. Construction of cathedrale Sainte-Marie d'Auch began in 1489 but was only finished 200 years later and is the last cathedrale built in France. After a tootle around the town, and taking the rare opportunity for a second coffee, we continued up and down country roads, through fields and forests and along tractored paths thick with mud. Oh the mud - it was slow going and there was some swearing - from me, not the French who was calm, as always.
Today we made the novice mistake of not buying food when we were in the big town of Auch, only to discover that the one bar and grocery shop in the one village along the way was not open until 4pm - it was 1pm when we arrived there. No choice but to walk on. Thankfully we had the last of our emergency food (cereals bars) so that was lunch.
By the time we arrived in the small village of L'isle de Noe, around 3pm and 27 kms from this morning, we saw our gite and walked straight past directly to the boulangerie. After a slice of pizza, a slice of quiche and a twix bar, eaten at the park bench, all was right with the world.
So it was time to knock on the door of our gite and meet Madame Edna Moody. If you're thinking that sounds more like a name from a British soap than a French village, you're right. Edna warmly welcomed us - and the two French girls who arrived a few minutes later - and presented coffee, tea and bikkies in no time.
Not wanting to be too nosy, but brimming with curiosity as to how this lady with the strong Manchester accent, and not a whole lot of French, came to be welcoming pilgrims in this tiny village on the Arles Way, I said 'Edna, I have a feeling you have the most interesting story of anyone here. I'd love to know how you came to be in L'isle de Noe ...' And so we listened to Edna's surprising and wonderful story.
That will have to wait until next time. It's late now, and we have another big day tomorrow.
That will have to wait until next time. It's late now, and we have another big day tomorrow.
J x
PS As we walked along The Way today the French and I had lots of fun reminiscing about our chance meeting in a gite on the Camino Le Puy, two years ago today - and all that's happened since! Une tres joyeux anniversaire.
