Monday, 11 April 2016

Day 11 La Salvetat sur Agout to Bouisset - 29 kms

A beautiful day on the path today. The thick dark clouds of the morning gradually moved way and, by early afternoon, we were walking under sunny blue skies. T-shirt weather. 

I wanted to write about our funny adventure at the end of yesterday's walk. As planned, we walked around 21 kms to La Salvetat. And given our late start, we arrived around 3.30. We walked up a steep path to the old town, confident we would readily find our gite / chambre d'hôte. It was highly recommended so we had booked the day before to be sure to secure two places. 

Mme Gisele Petit told us that the gite had two double rooms and a single room (ie 5 people max) with a shared bathroom. So we would have our own room. The gite also had full kitchen and dining facilities if we wanted to cook, or we could take Demi-Pensione (dinner, bed, breakfast) for 35 euros each. Yes, please. Parfait!  

I should first explain that the French and I don't get too fussed about the details. We decide a day, or two or three, before where we are going to stop for the night. We know the distance, give or take a few kms. We follow the signs to get to our destination, though we don't take much notice of the kms shown on the signs as we've discovered the GR is very 'flexible'. We often come across two signs together to the same destination, but showing different kms. I've included a photo from yesterday as an example. It's rarely necessary to look at the map or read a description of the route. We never check the weather - we can't change it and, in any case, we have what we need. And, unlike Guy who knows exactly where he is on the route at any given time, we have a rough idea and that's enough. Usually, our casual approach works very well. 

So yesterday afternoon on top of the hill in the old town of La Salvetat, we were a little surprised to discover that our gite was in fact 4 kms before La Salvetat, a small detail we had overlooked. In fact we had walked right past it, Les Trefles, and I'd commented to Domi how lovely it looked and even asked him what the name meant (trefle means clover). You see we had highlighted the details in the book, but hadn't committed the name to memory - usually plenty of time to check that when we arrive at our destination. Bear in mind most of the villages we are staying in are very small and the gites and chambre d'hotes are on The Way, so usually hard to miss. 

Problem solved in no time. We rang Mme Petit - Gisele - and her husband (we assume, and we never did find out his name) would come and pick us up, and bring us back the following morning to restart our walk where we left off. Perfect. And things just got better from there. 

Another group of three (French walkers) had booked at Les Trefles as well, so we would be five in the gite. With our own room, we were more than happy with that. We all arrived together and introduced ourselves. Before we had a chance to put our packs down, Gisele whisked Domi and I away, out of the gite and into her beautiful home, right next door. We wondered what was going on. She explained that the other group didn't want to share the bathroom in the gite (surprising, as a gite is generally communal, and not a hotel), so The French and I would stay in their home as their guests. She showed us up to the second floor, and to a large bedroom - with wonderful views - and an enormous bathroom. We couldn't believe our luck. 

Dinner was in the dining room of la maison. Aperitifs at 7 - saucisson and homemade vin d'orange - followed by bean and potato soup, boeuf roti with baby potatoes and carrots, creme caramel for dessert, and vin rouge of course. Everything delicious. And Gisele so kind and gracious, with the warmest smile. 

After a wonderful night's sleep, we were downstairs again for PDJ at 7 - fresh baguettes, and homemade pain raisin, confitures and other goodies. Around 8, time for our ride back into the village, with Gisele and Mr Petit. We thanked them sincerely - assuring them we had thoroughly enjoyed our stay, and everything had been perfect. Bises (kisses) all around, they wished us bon chemin, with a small package of goodies for The Way. 

The French and I reflected on our 'mistake' and decided that it had all worked out perfectly. Had we realised Les Trefles was 4 kms before Salvetat, we wouldn't have booked there - and we would have missed out on what we will surely remember as one of our most charming stops. 

C'est le chemin. Merci Gisele. 

J xx