An unusual and strangely wonderful day on The Way today - our one day on the Camino Frances, walking east from Obanos to Pamplona. It was a day that Domi and I enjoyed immensely and won't forget in a hurry.
I've gone a bit overboard on the photos - but if a picture paints a thousand words, these images may tell the story. In our first few hours we saw about 50 pilgrims. And, although there were some brief moments when we had the path to ourselves, in the last three hours, I'd guess we saw about 300 more. Sure when you walk 'the wrong way' for five hours you're going to see a lot more people than you would walking 'the right way'. Even so ...
So, yes, there were many, many more people walking compared to my first Camino Frances in September 2011 and my second with my friend Jill in April 2013. And when Domi walked the Frances in May 2014. And yes there were things I hadn't seen before - or at least I don't recall - like the mobile coffee cart at Alto del Perdon just opposite the magnificent metal sculptures, the foot care vending machines, the new cafes and albergues, backpack packs lined up at albergues before noon in a 'queue' in the hope of securing a bed for the night - the albergues typically open at 3 - and the list goes on.
But what hasn't changed is that this section of the Camino Frances is beautiful. And in my memory the whole 800 kms of the Camino Frances is an extraordinary path that offers a wonderful changing landscape, charming villages and deserted ones too, magnificent cities and the stark meseta. No wonder people love it. It's magical. But its allure has come with a price. For me, there are just too many people now. I don't know that I will ever walk it again - maybe one day when it's past its peak. But it doesn't matter. The French and I were both very happy to walk this small stage again today, albeit walking 'the wrong way'.
We arrived in Pamplona just before 1 and found our way to our wonderful hostal - the Aloha! Quick shower and change, and we headed straight to Plaza del Castillo, and an outdoor table with calamares and vino blanco, watching the world go by.
More on Pamplona tomorrow - and our rendez-vous tonight with Raymond, the Suisse.
J x
