It's two days since my last update - two days of climbing and more climbing. But what goes up, does eventually come down - sometimes very steeply!
Last time I wrote, we were in the coastal town of Deba. We had a restful night in the municipal albergue de peregrinos - the top two floors of the Deba train station. Sounds dreadful but it was modern, spotlessly clean, comfortable and quiet. These days the Deba train service is the Euskotren, a light rail which connects the Basque Country from Irun to Bilbao. The traditional train station was no longer needed, so the top two floors were converted to an albergue - what a clever use of public space and buildings. And just 5 euros for a bed and use of all facilities.
The next day we were up early (not much option in an albergue) and ready to tackle the mountains. Just as well. After barely 5 minutes to warm up, the path went straight up and, other than the odd reprieve, we climbed for much of the day, until a steep descent into Markina-Xemein, our stop for the night. It was a tough day, though with no 'alternative paths' for The French and I to follow, we passed many more peregrinos than we had in previous days.
As we approached Markina, we spoke briefly to a peregrino who said to be sure to look inside the small church that you pass on your way into town. And so we did and discovered the hexagonal Sanctuary of San Miguel de Arretxinaga, built in the 11th century around three megalithic stones. I've included some photos, though difficult to capture. Extraordinary!
After another restful night, this time in a private albergue where we had our own room, we made an early start which should have had us arriving in Gerkina between 1.30 and 2.00 this afternoon. In keeping with our theme of managing to make short days long, and long days even longer - an unintentional detour added another hour, an extra 4 kms and a creek crossing to our path today - but The French and I love an adventure. And we are hopeful our shoes will dry out overnight.
I was going to write a little tonight about how incredibly blessed we've been with the weather - for all of our time on The Way and particularly here on the Camino del Norte - but perhaps I'll get to that tomorrow. It's late now - and we want to make another early start for our last day of walking - so as not to arrive too late in Bilbao.
Until then. Hasta luego.
J x
