Thursday 31 March 2016

Arles

Nous sommes a Arles. We are in Arles. Quelle belle ville. Within minutes of arriving and walking into the old town and our chambre d'hôte, L'Atelier du Midi, I knew we would enjoy our short time here - which may well have been even shorter.

Yesterday we had train trouble - which meant a delayed departure from Nancy, an unscheduled change of train in Dijon, missing our connection in Lyon as a result, but happily managing to board another to travel via Marseilles back to Arles - a little late but none the worse for wear. The French trains are so comfortable, even in second class. And given today's planned transport strikes across France, we were grateful to have arrived when we did, in time for a reunion dinner with our dear friends Guy and Martine - fellow pilgrims we met on the Camino Primitivo in late 2014. 


We four have found Arles to be a delightful and interesting town - a walking town. There is a lot to explore and enjoy, from Roman times (the amphitheatre dates back to 90 AD) to Medieval (the Saint Trophime Cloister a highlight) and following in the footsteps of Van Gogh. For artists and art historians Arles must hold a special significance. I can't claim to have any knowledge of art - let alone any artistic talent - but I find this town charming. References to art are everywhere - even in our Chambre d'hôte where we are in the Gaugin room. There are two others - the Van Gogh and Picasso. Perhaps we will visit Arles again one day. 

Time is running short to write too much tonight. We've  had a long day discovering this gorgeous town. We are meeting Guy and Martine for dinner shortly at the highly recommended Le Criquet specialising in traditional Camargue cuisine. And, before then, we'll be doing a last check or our packs - in my case to see if there's anything I can do without!  My pack weight is down to 8.5 kg without water - which I'm pretty happy with - but under 8 would be even better. I'm not optimistic I can be so ruthless!  

Tomorrow we begin. I'm beyond excited to be en camino / en chemin again - and hoping to walk such a long way. It's been almost two years since the last time I set out to walk such a distance - around 900 kms from Le Puy en Velay to Pamplona. That was a wonderful adventure - full of surprises and serendipity. And I met a very interesting Frenchman along the way. 

I wonder what magic The Way will offer this time. 

J x












































Wednesday 30 March 2016

Before Arles

Avant Arles - une tres bonne semaine avec famille et amis.

The French and I are on the TGV travelling from Nancy to Arles. It's Wednesday 30 March and we have been in France for almost a week. It's been a time of reunion and rendez-vous with family and friends - mostly planned, with a few delightful surprises as well. 

We arrived at Charles de Gaulle airport early on Thursday morning after a long flight - but no delays and, unexpectedly, we were assigned extra legroom seats on the Abu Dhabi - Paris flight. Nice to stretch out. We began our time in Paris in what has become a tradition for early morning arrivals - cafe et croissants at Frenchy's cafe in the airport before taking the metro and RER to Le Vesinet and the tres charmant Villa Le Riante B&B we discovered on our visit last April. 

Our first surprise came before we had left the airport. While we were enjoying petit dejeuner at Frenchy's I checked my emails and there was one from Bill and Lilly Wilson, friends from Sydney who are regular visitors to France. I had included them on my distribution list for my blog link and they had replied to say they had just arrived back in Paris after some weeks in Provence and would we have time to see them? Bien sur!  Although we have only a few days in Paris, we had no particular plans other than spending Saturday with Domi's family and taking an afternoon train to Nancy on Easter Sunday. As for the rest, we had decided to play it by ear. So, yes, we would meet them at their 'local', L'Atlas bistro, in the 6th arondissement, Saint Germaine, at 11am on Friday. 

When we arrived at villa Le Riante we were warmly welcomed by Kristie and immediately felt very much at home. Showered and changed, I sent a text to my friend Marianne from Brisbane. She and husband David are in Paris for a legal conference - as they were last April when we met up with them. This year a rendez-vous seemed unlikely due to the full conference schedule and our short time in Paris. But, as it turned out, we were able to meet them for dinner the following night at Thoumieux at 79 rue Saint Dominique. Voila!  

We thoroughly enjoyed our Good Friday in Paris - beginning with le rendez-vous with Bill and Lilly at L'Atlas, followed by a viewing of their apartment just around the corner - a charming pied-a-terre. By early afternoon the grey skies had cleared and made way for blue, just in time for some hours of walking - via Places des Vosges and lunch at Ma Borgougne (a favourite) - before our dinner date with Marianne and David. C'etait parfait. 

The following day, Easter Saturday, we took the train to Brunoy in south Paris, to the home of Lucile (Domi's eldest daughter) and Nicola and their children Cami and Paul. Aliona (Domi's second daughter) and her children Somean and Angeli arrived soon after us. Warm welcomes, grands soureires et beaucoup des bises. Big smiles and many kisses. It was wonderful to see Domi's delight enjoying this day with his girls, Nicola and grandchildren - and they with him. Australia is a long way away. This was a special day. 

Back to Le Vesinet in the evening and time to prepare our luggage for our departure the next afternoon. Kristie has generously allowed us to leave our 'Paris bags' at the villa until our return in mid-May, a kindness that makes life a lot easier for us. So, from tomorrow on, only our backpacks, only hiking gear, for our visit to Domi's friends Christian and Marise, who live in the small village of Villiers Saint Etienne, near the equally small village of Pierre la Treiche where Domi used to live, quite near the medium sized town of Toul, and not far from the large city of Nancy. 

Easter Sunday morning at Villa Le Riante and, later than usual, we headed downstairs to the salle a manger for petit dejeuener, our last here until we return - from Spain - in seven weeks time. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and discussion with Kristie and her husband, Jim, a keen hiker who has walked many challenging trails. And a special surprise at the table - chocolat du Paques. Easter chocolates. J'adore ca! 

As our train to Nancy was not leaving Gare de l'Est until after 4pm, Kristie said there was no hurry to 'check out' and recommended the Sunday market in nearby town of Saint Germaine en Laye as a fun way to spend the morning. We had been to Saint Germaine on our first afternoon - in an effort to keep moving and minimise our jet lag (successfully as it turned out). We liked the idea of a return visit to this charming town, especially on market day. 

Back to Le Vesinet for a late lunch, 'a bientot' to Kristie, and we made our way by RER back into Paris to take the train to Nancy.  We arrived in the early evening, met by Christian and Marise. They are dear friends of Domi and tres gentil, very kind. It was the start of my French 'immersion' as neither speaks any English. I am content to listen and try to understand as much as possible. When I do speak, I know they appreciate my efforts. 

On Monday we go shopping for a new laptop for Christian. Domi is their 'technical adviser ' and they are keen to make the most of his visit. And he is very pleased to help. The afternoon is spent at home setting up the new computer. That evening Christian drives us to Domi's former village of Pierre la Treiche where we have dinner with friends George et Lauren and their young son Emilien. George is lending us a car to go the next day to Drusenheim, near Strasbourg, to see Solene, Domi's youngest daughter. Everyone is clearly delighted to see Domi again. The dinner is delicious, the conversation is lively. My immersion continues!  As does the kindness and generosity of Domi's friends, now 'our' friends. 

On Tuesday morning on our way to Drusenheim, we stop in Toul where Domi visits his bank. He had emailed the bank a few weeks ago as his debit and credit cards would expire while we are on The Way. The bank adviser immediately recognises Domi and greets him as you would an old friend. And yes his cards are ready. We stay for around 20 minutes, a leisurely chat with Domi's banker. She has many questions about Australia and Domi gives her a small souvenir. One more stop to see another friend, Alain, at his garage. Alain and his wife recently welcomed a baby girl Victoire. Domi presents him with some postcards and a souvenir - a koala baby on board sign - which Alain appreciates very much. A quick stroll in Toul and some unmistakeable signs remind us that this town is also part of The Way - linking Germany to the French routes of Le Vezelay and Le Puy en Velay. 

A few hours later we are in the small village of Drusenheim having lunch with Solene, Domi's youngest daughter. Solene lives nearby, though only on weekends and holidays, as she goes to University in Dijon, some 400 kms away. We are in Alsace - still in France, just - but the names of towns and restaurants - and the menu - have a distinctlvely Alsacian (to me, German) look. I recognise very few words. With Solene's help, I decide on a 'spätzle' dish (pasta) with salmon. Solene is a beautiful girl, as are all  Domi's daughters. And, though she has a different mother to Domi's older girls, I see a strong resemblance, especially to Aliona. 

Soon, it's time to say 'a la prochaine' (until the next time) to Solene. We make our way back to Pierre la Treiche to George and Lauren's home to return the car. Christian and Marise arrive soon after to take us back to Villiers Saint Etienne. A final dinner with Christian and Marise - for this visit at least. Marise has made Quiche Lorraine that afternoon (we are in Lorraine, after all) - yum!

An early start this morning - we enjoy a coffee with Christian and Marise. And at 7.30am Christian drives us to Nancy train station. 

Our camino adventure is about to begin. I can't wait! I'm so excited. And I see that even The French - always calm, always patient - feels the same. We have just to take the TGV to Arles. Easy. You'd think ... But, already, while writing this post (sure, a long one), the day has unfolded not quite as imagined. A sure sign we are on The Way ... presque, almost. 

Nous verrons. A demain. Amities. 

J x